I can help you with your GT, Wan. But you know that it will take time and money... It has been 9 months for my GT already and it still has some ways to go yet. Will be starting on the main wiring loom and engine components tomorrow. I estimate it will take another 2 weeks for wiring and components. It would not take so long if the original loom with no modifications is used but I am doing hidden custom loom.

I am also moving the main positive wire inside the car along with the fuel and brake pipe. This will also take some planning and time.

A good guess is somewhere along 2/3 weeks the engine will come to life.

Cheers

Fatboy is all wired up!! Blue, blue/black, brown, brown/yellow, purple and green!!! Blur looking at wires all day and wiring schematics all night. Can't sleep... Dreaming of demonic wiring looms. Why did the creators of such a simple car make the loom so complicated?? Just thinking about it gives me a headache. I understand why the local wireman prefer to take the easy way out.

Had a look at the wiring schematic and was totally lost for awhile. Decided to make it simpler but still following the original colour coding... The original wiring schematic




Master colour codes. I will need this to rebuild the loom




I will update the loom with additional wires for the aircon, spot lights, electric fuel pump, radio and reverse/fog lamp. Aside from this, I will also add in two main fuses(30Amp and 40Amp), build in about 6 relays, and use the later rover fuse block. The new battery main wire will be moved inside the cabin and will include a battery cut off switch. The all important earth wire will be welded to the body and an additional earthing cable will run all the way from back to front. Improving from the lessons learnt while doing my traveller loom. Here are some pictures of the traveller's loom.









No loose wires in here....




Dang, I need a beer.

hoho..
all the wired have been sucsessfully being kept away from our eyes!!

Finally had some time to get down to work again on the GT build. However, all is not well with its rear end. Looks like the lower rear sill is way beyond repair and has to be redone along with the boot floor, battery box and the lower valance. Here are some pictures of the damage and the cut area to be replaced. Will have to do it one section at a time.

What you see here is a section of the outer skin removed and it shows the rust damage on it












I don't know if this is true but I heard from some classic car owners that now PUSPAKOM/JPJ will not allow replacing of structural panels as they deem this to be a 'cut and join'. So they advocate patching of rust holes with fresh metal over the damaged sections ... Isn't this more dangerous? Over time the rust will spread throughout the entire car and one fine day these classics will just break apart because its structural integrity is gone? The above pictures clearly shows the type of damage that will occour when a patch job is done....

I really wonder if these fellas in PUSPAKOM and JPJ know what they are talking about. SO does that mean what I am doing to my GT is illegal? Bloody wishy washy is what I say. One day this, another day that, then again Malaysia Boleh!! Looks like it just got more expensive to put classics back on the road...

Anyways, back to the build... I also managed to spray the rear section of the cabin and the A, B and C pillars. I am leaving the rear seat support unpainted as there are also rust issues there... I am praying that my rear subframe is ok.

After giving the paint a day to dry out, I hit it with clear coat. Not too bad for an amateur la. There are some blemishes here and there. Anyway it does not matter as it is my 1275 GT after all











Please excuse the picture quality as I forgot my camera and these pictures were taken with my mobile phone...

Thanks for reading

Today's plan was to do the underseal for the undercarriage. I had masked up the holes in the inner wings and all panel holes. But before I could spray fresh underseal on, I had to remove the old stuff. This is because it will crack over time and I know for a fact if you ask paint shops to do it, they will just spray over the original stuff and what ever dirt/crud/mud that is stuck on it. They do not take off the old stuff because it is time consuming and extremely dirty.

After about 2 hours scraping off the thick old layer on the underside of the wheel wells, all four of them, I sprayed the underseal on. This is a black gook mixture of bitumen, heavy oil and kerosene. Very nasty stuff and it gets you high. It took another hour to get the front wheel wells done along with the undercarriage. The rear wheel well and the rear boot section will be done after the repairs are made. I found out the hard way that bitumen base stains human skin and will remain so for the next few days

The inner side of the wheel wells coated. The underseal really dries fast and you can see it here. The non shiny bits are the dried parts










The undercarriage area showing the tunnel, the floors and the sills













Thats it for today, I will be forming the repair panels for the boot area tomorrow.

Hey fatboy_my!!

Just thought I post something to show support and letting you know what a great job u've been doing.

Appreciate all these details of your work man!

I have few question need favours of your answers soon. Hope you don't mind.

Keep up the good work!!

Oh, by the way, I'm bolzy. Latest edition into MML. Post my introduction just yesterday.

Hey Bolzy,

Thank you for the compliment. I hope it helps in understanding how much work, time and money is involved in restoring a Mini. Please feel free to ask questions as this is the only way to learn from each other. I'll try to answer them...

Cheers

nice job restoring ur gt man..mine is still not finished yet...

god...gimme some time for my mini please!!!!